RECORDING YOUR OWN CD IN A HOME PROJECT
STUDIO
PART 3 – TRACKING
We left off last chapter getting the best input possible with our limited
toolkit. Getting good basic tracks is the most important part of the
recording process. By now you have hit the red button a few times and played
back what you’ve recorded. You have listened to different mic placements and
tried different signal inputs. Hopefully by now you are getting clean tracks
(regardless of the performance gnarliness) at good strong levels. In this
chapter we will be moving ahead into the overdubbing sessions as well. The
guidelines we used for getting good input levels apply to the overdubbing
also. To save you lots of time and perhaps grief, here are some ideas that
will make things flow better.
Tracking Quick Tips
• Keep in mind that non-destructive record mode and virtual tracks take up
precious storage resources. Record in destructive mode as often as possible
to keep from cluttering up your hard drive with hundreds of “non-keepers.”
Name your tracks as soon as you create them and before you record to them –
you will end up with file names you can use.
• Try to keep the room as quite as possible. If you are in your garage like
I am, the window air conditioning unit needs to be turned off if there are
open mics in the room. Is the dog laying at your feet going to bark when a
car drives by? And by the way what is a hair and dander shedding mutt doing
in your studio?
• When getting your initial input signal before recording, have the player
really hit it hard – as hard as they are likely to play it in the loudest
passage of the song. This is especially important for the rhythm section. If
you’re four minutes into the best take ever of a five-minute song, you don’t
want all the drum channels red lights coming on indicating clipping and
distortion. When the player hits you with his/her best shot, make that peak
around -3db to leave yourself a bit more headroom.
• When recording overdubs; particularly solos play the solo or part in
phrases – making distinct holes between phrases. This will leave you room
for subsequent punches in and out should they be necessary.
• Practice your punch in and out in a non-destructive mode a few times
before committing to a destructive punch.
• Get it while you can. Particularly when overdubbing, try to leave enough
session time for the player to complete the whole job. The best time to
record as much as you can is when the player is plugged in and levels set.
Recreating a session parameters later to duplicate a sound can be
problematic if time passes between sessions. The killer guitar patch in the
player’s stomp box may not be there in a couple weeks.
• Be supportive. Part of the job of getting a great recording is attitude.
Don’t be an obsequious suck-up sycophant – that’s transparent and a
put-down. You may not have to get all warm and fuzzy and fluff the aura and
hug the player but a compliment on a well-played part can do wonders for the
next pass. It builds confidence. If you are a session loner – well you’ve
already convinced yourself you’re hot stuff or you wouldn’t be wasting the
time recording your own CD eh? So burn some awesome keepers your hotness.
• Try to do as little “comping” as possible. Sometimes you have to cut and
paste a part together but it is the least desirable way to get a good
performance. There may be a hundred ways of looking at a solo but there is
only one you are going to use. Save time and just record and keep that one.
Putting a solo together from 10 takes will only take tons of hard drive
space and time at the back end. Comping can also immunize you from any
enthusiasm for the 45-second solo that took you a week to cut-n-paste
together. You can burn out. More on compositing when we get to the mixing
chapter.
• Back up your sessions after every session. On my recording computer I have
two hard drives. One is an 80GIG system drive that holds all my software and
operating system. I have another drive rack installed that I move hard
drives in and out of. I still have about 50GIG left on my operating drive.
After I have closed all my applications, I copy the entire contents of the
session drive to C:\TEMP. Do not open the sessions on your primary drive,
they are just there for backup. You write over them after each session. That
way if your session drive goes down, you have backup on your system drive
you can restore from. I have found 50GIG to be more than enough space for
backing up a couple CD projects. Make sure you still have plenty of room on
your system drive (10%) as the operating system will use some of it for
caching.
The hard part is already done - we already have killer drums and bass
tracks, let’s look at some of the tracks and techniques we will be using in
overdub sessions.
The Vocals
So now let’s cover your basic overdubbing tracks starting with the vocals.
You should cut the keeper lead vocals before proceeding to the other
overdubs as subsequent players will be working their fills around the vocal
performance.
There are a variety of techniques for getting a good vocal cut. I would
recommend a good condenser mic for cutting vocals although in some cases
(usually punk/metal music) a lowly Shure SM57 can do a great job. When
recording vocals, it is inadvisable to add any effects while tracking. In
this I don’t mean just printing the effects to the hard drive – I mean even
bussing reverb back into the headphone mix to make the vocalist feel larger.
Some vocalists can’t live without a bit of touchup so a bit into the
headphone mix is OK but don’t print it. If it sounds too awesome to dump,
open up another channel and print the wet and dry inputs.
The vocalist’s headphone mix should give them a good mix of the band but
should have their vocal up front and present. The “far away” reverb and
delay sound is currently “out.” If you listen to current pop records, the
vocal has more presence than in the past. They sound more in-your-face and
realistic. When sending a mix to the singer, give them a barren mix. They
really don’t need to hear the screaming guitar fills. Another trick to get a
vocalist to step up and belt it out is to reduce them in the headphone mix
just a little – they will lean into the performance to hear themselves
better.
Start with the vocal mic being placed directly in front of the singer. I
currently use two mics for cutting vocals – Studio Projects mic I picked up
for $225 and the other a Neumann TL-107 which is the entry-level vocal
condenser from Neumann at about $1,000. Price disparity aside, they are both
great mics and do a great job.
Another must is some kind of pop filter. There are a variety of inexpensive
screens out there but even a couple pair of pantyhose stretched over a coat
hanger is better than nothing. Place a wind screen in front of the vocalist
about three inches from the mic diaphragm and have the singer get in close
to it. I tell the singer to get as close to kissing the mic as they can
without upsetting their significant other. I like the singer’s lips no more
than 7-8 inches from the mic diaphragm. This closeness to the mic is what
will give your vocal performance presence – it will sit nicely when you go
to mix. Remember the better the track recorded, the less time you will spend
in the mixing trying to fix things that should have been brought to bear
during these initial tracking sessions. It is very hard to add presence to a
vocal performance after the fact when you can effect ambience so do your
homework while setting up the session.
Like other tracking, run through the song once with the vocalist and ask
them to really nail it in terms of volume. Again try to leave yourself a few
db of headroom for later sessions. If the vocalist’s dynamic range is too
unpredictable, throw a compressor limiter in the signal path between the mic
and the computer input. I try to steer clear of using compression during the
initial tracking – it is the oldest and easiest trick in the book to keep
recording levels uniform and avoiding clipping. It also can leave sonic
artifacts if overused. If you have ever heard a vocal track wheezing, it is
usually the compressor kicking in – it sounds just like what it is – a valve
opening and closing. On the other hand the high-end analog compressors and
vocal preamps mask this valve sound effectively but I have had less than
optimal results with compressor limiters in the low-budget range. If the
vocalist is all over the amplitude (volume) map, then compression is not an
option but a requirement but use as sparingly as possible. The basic
settings for a compressor are threshold, ratio, attack, release and output.
A good place to start is setting the threshold at -10 to -12db. This is the
lower level – the compressor will not affect program material below this
level. Ratio settings are just a way of labeling the signal in and out. A
good initial ratio setting would be 2:1. This means that the volume will be
reduced by half after the threshold is cross. As for attack – set it at its
lowest setting to start. This is a “flavor to taste” option. If the attack
time is set for too long, the wheezing sound will enter the picture.
Experiment with the attack time. As for release, this will again require a
bit of A/B testing – you want to leave enough release time to let passages
fall off evenly and naturally. Using a compressor will even out the peaks
and valleys of performance amplitude and sometimes might bring your overall
signal level down a bit. That is what the output knob is for. You may have
to increase the signal output after the compression leg to bring you back up
to good recording levels.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Remember that any signal processing such as compression
that is inserted into the signal path on its way to the recorder cannot be
undone once you hit the red button. When in doubt and if drive space allows,
cover your rear by recording two tracks; one dry, one processed. Keep the
dry track’s level low enough that the hard hits don’t clip. You may need to
go back to the dry performance if your wet track sounds too affected,
especially after adding yet more effects to the channel during mixing. The
compressed signal you recorded might start sounding different when you add a
delay or reverb to the track in post.
Backup Vocals
Backup vocals are recorded in pretty much the same fashion. If the tracks
are available, give every backup singer their own track. Again try to get
the singers in as close to the mic as possible. If you have multiple singers
working one mic at the same time, they will have to get pretty intimate
while tracking as the proximity is just as important for the backup tracks.
Do a few test runs and arrange the singers around the mic so that everyone
is getting picked up evenly. Listen closely to pitch – although out-of-tune
vocals can make the band sound bigger (hah!), they pretty much suck in
regards to the consumer listening experience. Minor pitch variations can be
corrected in the mix if you have tuning software but again it is much better
to get it right in the initial sessions.
Electric Guitars
In these days of amp modeling, you can get some pretty high volume and
gnarly sounds from a low-cost box that will let you mimic the sounds of
dozens of amps you can’t afford to own. There is a lot of debate regarding
amp models with two camps – the ones who say it sucks and the ones who
don’t. If I were recording a rock guitar, sure it would be fun to split the
signal and go into a Marshall, a Matchless and a vintage 60’s Twin Reverb.
Problem being is that I don’t have any of these amps and even the rental
costs are prohibitive. So I fall in the camp of those who think modeling is
great. I have a vintage (2003) Line POD and use it a lot. There are some
great models in there and you can tweak them to taste. Even some of the
effect like stereo chorusing are so good I print them. My other primary
audio sources for guitar sounds are my little Blues Junior and a bit more
muscular Hot Rod Deluxe.
If you have the tracks a great thing to do is to split the signal out of the
guitar and print one track of dry signal and another track of the amp with a
mic on it. Later in the session, if you don’t like the amped guitar sound
you can buss the clean track back out of the computer into another amp or
modeling device. It leaves you more options later.
My most common technique for a guitar cabinet is to use the standard SM 57 a
bit off axis and about 5-6 inches from the speaker cone. Again if you have
the tracks – try recording the guitar amp with two mics – one in tight and
one somewhere else in the room. You can pop on a set of headphones, get the
guitarist to play and walk around the room with the second mic trying
different ambiences. You can get some killer sounds this way if you
practice.
Acoustic Guitars
Getting a great acoustic sound is a bit more problematic that electric
guitars as their can be more sonic nuance involved. The other day a friend I
sent some rough mixes to for comment, commented, “How did you get that
killer acoustic guitar sound?” What was my answer? I plugged my Takamine
directly into the DIGI 001 and recorded it flat. Many acoustic guitars on
the market today have great pickups in them – use the technology. Again
multiple channels are real helpful if you can afford the space. Plug the
guitar in directly on one channel and then mic the guitar with a good
condenser mic about 8-10 inches from the guitar pointing at the 12-th fret
(that’s usually the one with two dots on the neck). Listen while the guitar
is being played and move the mic around. You will find the “sweet spot.”
With that and a dry track, you will get a fat sound.
Another common trick with acoustic guitars, particularly when being used as
the base of a song, is to double track the parts. Try to record an identical
track after the first pass. If your phasing is correct you can pan these
guitars hard right and left in the final mix and it will sound enormous. An
option that is also way cool is instead of tracking an identical track, capo
the guitar to a new chord position and double the original track. This can
give you a 12-string or chorused sound as even a doubled part will have
slight timing variations from the original track.
Keyboards
If you have a Dussendorfer or Steinway grand piano, I will assume you also
have the microphones and room to record it with. This will address the kind
of keyboard you plug it. Some of my keyboard friends who wouldn’t dream of
cutting a piano part on an electronic keyboard have changed their tune in
the last few years. The piano samples are getting better and are used on
lots of hit recordings. Getting a good piano sound is as easy as plugging
the piano into the recorder (hopefully in stereo), setting your levels and
hitting the red button. On some of the more inexpensive keyboards the piano
sounds come with reverb. If you can, turn off this “feature” do so as you
can affect the keyboard with much more precision in the mix.
Other Acoustic Instruments
Accordions, djembes, shakers, gongs and other toys can give a song great
coloration. You will want to grab your best condenser mic and start
experimenting. I’ve found that our friend the SM 57 can be used in many
close mic environments like congas, bongos and djembes. Try a couple 57s on
different parts of the drum heads and then use your condenser a ways back to
pick up the whole kit. My favorite mic (that I own of course) for the
condenser is the very versatile Neumann KM-184.
Looks like I have run out of space for this issue. Stay tuned for the next
installment when we wind up our tracking and start having real fun – mixing.
You can find these articles online at musicoffice.com.
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Check
hchappenings.com and musicoffice.com for more information and downloads
that will accompany this series. Greg Forest is author of, “The
Complete Music Business Office” published by Thomson publishing and the
Entertainment Source Library published by Mix Bookshelf, owner of The
Music Office and a former consultant to the Texas Music Association and
the Texas Office of Film and Music. He can be reached at The Music
Office, 830.896.0405. |
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